quickie: “projet”

projet (n.m.) : project

Dear franglophonians:

Every now and then, we find ourselves searching for weeks, months, maybe years – feeling out what we want to do next, what will be our nouveau projet.  The past few months, I’ve found my efforts scattered – learning Italian, pursuing freelance food writing, and starting a new job in the field of nutrition and wellness.

Oh the joys of Parisian market life...like the first time I ever tried "oursin" (sea urchin)...

And in this flurry of activity, I’ve been yearning to find a way to combine the lifestyle and perspective I gained in France with all my other interests.  So after much consideration, I’ve launched a new blog called “Comme au marché“, where my love for languages, food, lifestyle, and la vie quotidienne can be celebrated in all its myriad forms, without restricting the content to francophone/phile readers.

That said, the French language is still one of my greatest passions – and there’s no way I won’t be back from time to time to tell you about the marrant new mot I learned or the typiquement français situation I just observed.

I hope many of you will migrate to check out comme au marché.  Without la vie franglophone and my time living in Paris, it is a projet that would have never come to be.

à très bientôt j’espère,

Carly

“Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux. “
(The true voyage of discovery does not consist in seeking new lands, but in seeing with new eyes)
-Marcel Proust

—vocabulaire—

nouveau > new

la vie quotidienne > daily life

marrant > funny

mot > word

typiquement français > typically french

à très bientôt j’espère > I’ll see you very soon I hope

reality bites: “quatre jours” (continued, journée 4)

quatre jours : “four days”

Journée quatre : Paris monumental
Landmarks, museums and other touristic sites that are actually worth seeing.

Where's Sacre Coeur?

1. Montmartre
C’est à vous de décider.  Start the day at Montmartre, or end the day at Montmartre.  It’s a difficult choice to say the least.  I prefer le matin, when the neighborhood is quieter and you might actually see locals milling about.  Not to mention that le village de Montmartre has some of the best boulangeries in Paris.  On my most recent trip to Paris, I stayed à deux pas de Place d’Abbesses.  Easy to get to by métro (Abbesses), this is the perfect place to start your Montmartre stroll.  Start buy buying one of those famous baguettes.  I’m a fan of Au Levain d’Antan, the 2011 winner.  And for those who prefer to eat something other than a baguette, I recommend the 2010 winner, Le Grenier à Pain.  But make sure whatever you buy is chaud, or ça ne vaut pas le coup.

2. Sacre Coeur
Rather than climbing up to Sacre Coeur via the grand staircase, head the back way.  Leave Place d’Abbesses via Rue la Vieuville, and hang a gauche on Rue des Trois Frères.  Meander towards Rue Lepic, which you can then climb uphill until you reach Rue Norvins, which will lead you to Place du Tertre.  The touristy-ness of this spot rivals the lines at the Eiffel Tower, so pass through quickly and faites gaffe à ton portefeuille.  Rue Azais will curve you around to Sacre Coeur.  The pristine white basilica is worth a visit, despite its unfortunate history and the shady characters that set up shop on its steps.  You can descend the steps for an alternate view on the way down.  From there, make your way down to Pigalle.

The infamous Red Windmill...

3. Pigalle
As the red-light district of Paris (though the prostituées of Strasbourg Saint-Denis might give Pigalle a run for it’s money), Pigalle is an excellent place to expore – during the daytime – unless you are an experienced Parisian wanderer.  Wander the stretch between métro Pigalle and métro Blanche, and while minding the sex shops, keep a look out for the interesting clandestin streets and gated homes tucked in on the right-hand side Boulevard de Clichy.  The Cité Veron, for example, is the former home of the famous Parisians Jacques Prévert and Boris Vian.

"Goodbye Mother", Pere Lachaise

4. Père Lachaise
I’m not usually one to advocate the métro over walking, but there’s quite a bit of ground to cover between Pigalle and Père Lachaise, so get on the ligne 2 at Blanche and head to the métro stop Père Lachaise.  This famous cemetary is absolutely gorgeous, and totally impossible to navigate.  (Jim Morrison’s grave is anti-climactic at best, by the way).  Mes conseils? Don’t go in with a plan to find any grave in particular.  In fact, I quite enjoy meandering through Père Lachaise without a but.  It avoids the inevitable frustration of not finding the specific graves you’d like to see, and I quite prefer daydreaming about all the lesser-known souls who are enterré there.  Budget your time wisely, and try to keep a sense of direction – or else you’ll lose the full day here.

5. Possibilités…
At this point, it’s up to chacun to choose their priority, based on his or her interests.  Here’s a liste of other places worth visiting.

The Eiffel Tower, as seen from Trocadero

5a. Tour Eiffel
Well, if you must, you must.  But if il faut que vous voyez le Tour Eiffel, I’m at least going to make a few suggestions of how to see it.
Option #1 : Head to Trocadero.  You’ll be across the river here, with splendid views/photo opps.  And you’ll get a taste of the ritzier neighborhoods of Paris.
Option #2 : Take a ride on a Bateau Mouche.  There are many companies operating these river boats, and they really do offer some unique and lovely views of the Eiffel Tower (among other monuments).
Option #3 : For the absolutely stubborn among us, the Champ de Mars it is.  Do not bother with trying to climb the Tour (although I know some people will still insister), rather view it from a far (and eventually closer) in this large public garden.  Avoid the women asking if you speak English.  Trust me, you don’t.

One of the lovely sculptures from the Salle de Fetes.

5b. Musée d’Orsay
This museum really is lovely, with a splendid impressionist collection (not to mention sculptures so gorgeous that you might actually forget you came for Monet).  My favorite room is the Salles de Fêtes.  And I highly recommend checking out the Courbet paintings as well.

5c. Musée Rodin
By far, one of the most loved small museums in Paris, this gorgeous gardened enclave houses some of the most sensual sculpture around.  It is a must-see for any fans of la sculpture – though I warn you, Rodin was far from a stand-up guy (some of the sculptures credited to him were later found to be those of his famous mistress Camille Claudel).

The Louvre

5d. Le Louvre
If you haven’t fit it in already, the Louvre is just breathtaking.  I sometimes dissuade first-time Parisian visitors from visiting (at least without a trusty guide or former art history student), because you can really lose a day (or days) in there.  My favorite things to see?  The appartements of Napoleon III, the sculpture courtyards (Cours Marly, Cours Puget) and nearby Assyrian guards, the Winged Victory and Galerie d’Apollon, the large-format French paintings (David, Géricault, etc.), the Salle des Caryatides, the and the Egyptian wing.  (I spent two days a week -minimum- in the Louvre when I was an Erasmus student, so I’ve seen everything, multiple times).  These collections are sadly not all next to each other – so plan your attack systematically.  (And beware the 3-hour museum exhaustion barrier.  It is very, very real.  And sometimes will sneak up on you as soon as hour 2).

5e.  Ne faites rien de tout (Don’t do anything)
 Any of the above choix make for a long and exhausting day – so feel free to also take the rest of the afternoon/evening off and grab a verre du vin.  If you choose this option, well…you’re more parisien than I thought.

—vocabulaire—

C’est à vous de décider > It’s up to you to decide

le matin > the morning

à deux pas de > two steps from

chaud > hot

ça ne vaut pas le coup > it’s not worth it

faites gaffe à ton portefeuille > watch out for your wallet

prostituées > prostitutes (also known as femmes de bonheur – women of happiness)

ligne 2 > line 2 (of the metro)

Mes conseils > My advice

but > goal

enterré > buried

chacun > each

liste > list

il faut que vous voyez le Tour Eiffel > If you must see the Eiffel Tower

monuments > monuments

Tour > Tower

insister > insist

appartements > apartments

choix > choices

verre du vin > glass of wine

parisien > parisian

reality bites: “quatre jours” (continued, journée 3)

quatre jours: four days

Journée 3 : Paris chic et gourmand (Chic and foodie Paris)

Shopping for cheese at La Fermete, Rue Montorgeuil

1. Rue Montorgueil (2e)
Start the day at the nothern end of Rue Montorgueil; this historic market street is home to the supposed best éclair in Paris, among a number of other famous and lauded fromageries, boulangeries, épiceries, et bistros.  For breakfast, I’d suggest to poke your head into Eric Kayser for a morning pastry.  The brioche au chocolat blanc is literally one of my favorite things to eat in Paris.

2. Saint Eustache
When you reach the southern end of Rue Montorgueil, pop into the church on your right – Saint Eustache.  Don’t forget to check out the unique heart shaped windows, and when you leave out the front door, look for La Droguerie, a colorful tricotage shop.

Copper pots at E. Dehillerin

3. Magasins de Cuisine (1e/2e)
As you leave Saint Eustache and pass by La Droguerie, continue to suivre Rue Coquillière to the point where it intersects with Rue du Louvre.  On this corner stands E. Dehillerin, one of the oldest kitchen/restaurant supply stores in Paris, and a personal favorite shop of Julia Child.  In fact, this whole neighborhood is filled with lovely cooking stores, appropriately surrounding the former site of Les Halles (the famed central Parisian market).  Turn left out of E. Dehillerin, and follow Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau to Rue Montmartre, where you will find several other worthwhile cooking stores, including Bovida and Mora.

A Parisian passage couvert

4. Galeries et Passages Couverts (2e/8e)
After you’ve spent an hour or two playing le gourmand, follow Rue Montmartre north until it becomes Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre (this switch occurs when you traverse Boulevard Poissonière).  On the left-hand side, at 31 bis, you will find the Passage Verdeau.  This is one of a handful of gorgeous covered passages/galleries that remain from the mid-19th century, when the upper-crust of the rive droite found it safer and chicer to shop indoors.  Only 20 or so of the original 150 passage remain, and they are truly some of the most spectacular, interesting, and overlooked attractions in Paris.  (For a list of the most beautiful passages, click here or check out this website with a map of the passages (in French)).  From Passage Verdeau, you can follow a series of passages until you find yourself near the Opéra.

5. Palais Garnier et Galleries Lafayette
When you’ve exhausted the succession of passages heading ouest from Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, head towards the Galleries Lafayette on Boulevard Haussmann.  This historic department store is one of the oldest in Paris, and the main building has a gorgeous stained glass ceiling (over the perfume section) that is not to be missed.  Anyone craving a good peek at the Eiffel Tower – or who just wants to get their bearings – should head to the toit, where there is a lovely view of the Opéra de Paris(Palais

Palais Garnier, as seen from the roof of Galleries Lafayette

Garnier).  The Palais Garnier is your next stop after Galleries Lafayette, a historic building known among tourists as the setting for the Phantom of the Opera (and a visit to the building will only reinforce your wildest theatrical fantasies).  The place does feel downright haunted, and you cannot help but imagine the lavish soirées and opening nights of centuries passed.  A self-guided tour is well-worth the 9€ entry fee, if you have the time. 

6. Madeleine et macarons
From the Opéra, descend southwest along the Boulevard des Capucines, to Place Madeleine.  Pop your head into the church, which has an impressive altarpiece (if you feel so inclined), or continue sans arrêt down Rue Royale to La Durée, the most famous macaron shop in Paris.  Sweet tooths should definitely sample a smattering of mini-macarons; my favorite flavor is cassis-violet.

Children playing in the Palais Royal courtyard

7. Saint Honoré et Palais Royal

While you nibble on macarons, quickly poke your head down to Place de la Concorde, renown as the spot where Louis XVI (and other important historic figures) lost their têtes to the guillotine.  Head back north on Rue Royale, and swing right on Rue Saint Honoré, the most chic shopping street (no it’s not the Champs Elysées) in modern-day Paris.  Home to stores such as the much-lauded concept store Colette, this street also runs adjacent to several historic squares, including the Place Vendôme and the must-see Palais Royal.  Make sure to take a tour through the arcaded garden and courtyard of the latter monument, which houses such institutions as the most-prominent Parisian antiques dealer and the oldest (continually operating) restaurant in Paris.

8. Et après?
The nearby Louvre is actually lovely in the evening, whether for a jaunt through the courtyard or a proper visit to the musée.  The Louvre des Antiquaires is also à côté - a veritable wonderland of antiques that could intrigue even the most bored of museum-goers.  Or if you’re feeling outdoorsy, perhaps it’s time to vadrouiller through the Jardin de Tuileries.  Those in the mood for a cocktail (or a nightcap) might enjoy a stop at le Fumoir, and the nearby Rue de l’Arbre Sec is a hot-bed of culinary hit-makers, housing some of the very best restaurants in Paris (if you haven’t made reservations, try for a spot at Le Garde Robe, a small bar à vins).

—vocabulaire—

fromageries, boulangeries, épiceries, et bistros > cheese shops, bakeries, grocery stores and bistros

brioche au chocolat blanc > white chocolate brioche

tricotage > knitting

suivre > follow

le gourmand > the foodie

traverse > cross

rive droite > right bank (of the Seine river)

toit > roof

soirées > parties

sans arrêt > without stopping

macaron > a typically Parisian dessert – meringue sandwich with jam or cream like filling

cassis-violet > blackcurrant-violet

têtes > heads

musée > museum

à côté > next door

vadrouiller > ramble

bar à vins > wine bar